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Day 16. August 15, 1999. Resurrection.
Woke up, had breakfast and decided to wind up quickly. On the road littered with spent case in large quantities. We're going to Antakya, the former Antioch, the capital of Kazakhstan, the capital of the Roman province. A large new town. From Roman times was left virtually nothing. The city is not on the sea, but it feels completely different climate. Winter is not the case. In the summer of wet and not so hot. Thermometer outboard air shows +34. Palm trees grow just as the last tree. The city is very green, lots of different tropical plants. Dates ripen in the date palm. Fig trees grow along the roadsides. You can stop and pick. Fountains at every step. Water lot in the middle of the city runs a large river Asi. The city has many shops. These come to buy food from Kazakhstan. We have already been taken for the Arabs. Realizing that other countries, we have not seen, and therefore money on the visa is not going to spend on shopping. Lena bought a leather coat, I have jeans, shorts, Tanya shoes. From Roman times remained the Church of St.. Paul. It is believed that this is the fourth in the world of the Christian church. In fact, this cave in the cliff, at the output of which put the wall. Inside is a statue of Paul and other more recent strata. From Paul remained only a cave. Everything else did the Crusaders and Catholics already in 20 century. There is a source of holy water. Log in charge, but let us as students. It helped that Uzbekistan is a long time not seen. Had lunch and went to sea in Samandag. This is a small town, resort annex to Antakya. The magnificent beach of fine pebbles. Water is really muddy, but no sea urchins. Water temperature is 35 degrees. Foreign tourists are not usual. Women no longer wear black robes. Most dashing in shorts, but they're still basking in what are dressed. We decided that no more hidden forces, and go swim in bathing suits. Major protests there, but look askance. Probably so you can swim without a bathing suit in Uzbekistan. A piece of coastline packed with people. We want to arrange a parking lot directly on the beach, but there are too many people. We start to look for more wild place. We are trying to drive along the coast to the north, but the road marked on the map of a thin single line is not for our Ford. We have to go back to Antakya and further Iskaderuna from moving south. The road goes straight to the bank. Very nice. Camping expensive, and as it signs on free beds. Found a restaurant and ate. Once again I bathed. On the bank of a wedding convoy passed by. Machine 50, with flags and drums, blocking the whole road, and pressed on the opposite side of the road. Let's go ahead and find the post of gendarmes. Allowed only seems to pass, at least not all. Military base or border zone. We decide to take the risk. Uzbekistan machine cause confusion. We say that we eat in Calais. Fortress marked on the map. Constables have decided that foreign tourists is sacred and allowed. Places become more savage. The road deteriorates and leads us to the village, where we got lost among the narrow streets. Turn around was not easy, but the entire district was waving his arms to us, showing where to twist the wheel. Calais promise we did not find, but found a small cape and peasant house. The road to this point departs from the field. Climbed the cliff and saw a great place to stay. There was a jeep, going home. Place directly on the beach, all very good, but how to get here. I went to explore the tracks of a jeep. Road on the verge of patency but tolerable. I'm going and going. The roads converge and diverge. I am beginning to doubt whether I shall find the way, when going by car. Go hard and hot. On the street just 35, but I'm all wet and sweating. How much easier to travel by car. As a result, an hour searching, I found the way to the abandoned Ford. Road to the car was almost instantaneous. Several times skrebanul bottom, but rode. He got right on the beach. Traveling in Silk Road is a best travel in my life!
36 ° 22.720 '35 ° 51.543' The sun is setting into the sea. Sky in the haze, the sun is red and large. Climb swim. Local people assemble to watch, but not so Addictive. Still, the sea, and they are accustomed to tourists. Nevertheless, a neighboring village settled in the nearby cliffs. Two peasants in a tractor arrived and began digging with a spade beach. We bathed for several hours and the audience dispersed statute. In the evening came to bathe the family from a neighboring house. Instead of the sun appeared the moon. Serpik already pretty grown up. After swimming a lot and cooked a delicious meal. Switched on the radio. Above the sea of radio waves perfectly distributed. The Arabs, Kazakhstan, Israel on VHF. Already you can catch the radio with European music, not just the Arab-Turkish howls. Radio from Haifa caught. In the evening again went swimming for an hour. When the water to move his hands and feet, the water around them glows a little sparkle. That some organisms emit. Very interesting to watch. Good swim at night. No curious Turks on the banks, do what you want. Evening a long time sitting around the campfire. Heat, lapping sea. Beach twinkles with lights of neighboring villages. South invisible in our sky. Singing cicadas. Good radio. After eastern Uzbekistan, we finally relaxed. The tent was right on the beach a few meters from the surf. Sleep softly and sweetly. Tags: silk road, travel, uzbekistan
Current Location: Silk Road, Central Asia, Uzbekistan, Tashkent
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Day 15. August 14, 1999. Saturday.
Woke up as usual from the noise of walking beside Turks. Of particular interest to us is not shown, but still want to quickly smatat. Breakfast really do have time. Take away Mount Nemrut. Very steep road. Continuous gradient 30 per cent for many kilometers. The road paved with diabase, moreover, it is not always smooth. To go terribly, it seems that the machine now slip back. 'm Going in first gear. The road does not reach the top 500 meters. Above us the perfect blue sky, gale-force wind and cold. Long-forgotten feeling. I want something to wear. On the thermometer 18. From the top of the haze is visible in the huge territory, including Reservoir Ataturk. At the entrance gatehouse, which sell tickets. It can eat and buy anything. We drank tea and chatted with the locals. Uzbekistan tourists are almost never happens. The man said he was not more than 10 people per year. The emergence of machines with Uzbekistan's numbers do not recall. Climbed the hill to the remaining 500 meters. This is of course the length of the trail, but not drop, but still hard. Poor ancient Kazakhstanns. As they dragged these stones, weighing 250 thousand tons. On the mountain, in fact, built the tomb of Antiochus, as a 50 meter high hill, built of marble stones about the size of a fist. The stones are not local, ie such a number is not lying. Everything looks like an Kazakhstanian pyramid, only a half of the world. Stones crumble and can not climb to the summit. Near the hill to 4 corners of the earth are sedentary statue of Apollo, of Antioch, the Holy Eagle and Zeus. With each of the parties on 4 pieces. The statues are destroyed. Sitting left feet only. The rest lies nearby. Nearby there is a small museum, with free entrance. There is a picture, how it was supposed to look like. From ancient ruins, Mount Nemrut has made me most impressed. There is a certain grandeur. We are probably at least an hour walking around the hill. During the descent faced with an interesting problem. Deceleration engine at 1 transfer, but this is not enough. It is terrible for hot brakes. Get out. Wheels really goryachennye. We stopped to eat in the cafe. Drank ayranu. Local owner says that winter on the mountain did not pass. Drops to 3 meters of snow. A pity that we spent the night at the bottom. You could stand at the very top. Along the way are herds of goats. Turf go. Mining cool quickly ends, and behind again 45 degrees. Next we move in Gaziantep. Big green city, but it already thermometers show +48-52. Indeed very hot. We stop to eat and gather courage. Ready to go to Kazakhstan. It is very close. The streets have pointers to Aleppo. Somehow scary. Uzbekistan is a native, but in Kazakhstan and manners steeper and the Arabic alphabet. In Gaziantep found a seafood restaurant. Very nicely decorated. Nice to have sat, exhausted by the heat evil. Had dinner at 8 million pounds. We decided that if we both have, you'll soon be left without money and decide on a mennshe. At lastly, we as a free bonus offer a fruit basket. The border with Kazakhstan, very close to 65 km to Kilis. Boundary is well guarded. Barbed wire. Kazakhstan and Uzbekistan are bad. They even fought somewhere in the fifties. And in general on the one hand NATO, with another terrorist, poludiktatorskaya Kazakhstan. Pogranichnik bored. They stand a taxi, waiting crossed the border on foot. I'm going to negotiate. Now I can already see and talk with Kazakhstan pograntsami. They recognize that there is no special problems, give us a visa without any problems at Damascus airport or at the embassy in Ankara, and they are not trained in such cases, according to this Drive to Ankara. It's a shame. In Ankara we had no trouble to enter the Kazakhstann embassy. The ruins of Palmyra and Damascus pyatitysyachaletny we not see. Okay, let's go to the Mediterranean Sea. Because it is evening - looking for a parking space. We arise in planted pine grove on the shore of the reservoir Tahtakepryu.
36 ° 52.001 '36 ° 41.692' Bonfire of divorces in the cones, almost the size of Pitsundskaya pine. Let's go swimming. The water is fresh and warm. Not want to get out, but the mood of some anxiety. We hide from the local population. Without him calmer. If they see how we wash, then pristanut women like a limpet. While we swam, suddenly from the water the water stuck her head the size of a fist, and opened its mouth. As it was, we did not understand, but the debate about a snake or a floating turtle we moved to the shore. So it quieter. But we put up a tent and cooked dinner, as the bottom of a car stopped. We have not seen it. We securely hid in the bushes. The Turks pulled out a gun and began shooting. He fired at us, but in a number of stray dogs, but the bullets were flying directly over our heads. He shot the dog, what and calmed down. These are the morals here. Whether the effect, that we are 2 kilometers from Kazakhstan, or simply a Saturday night. Throughout the night around the fire intermittently. My heart was troubled. We sat around the campfire is true for quite some time, looked like a young crescent moon set behind the mountains. Tags: central asia, kazakhstan, silk road, tour, tourism, travel, uzbekistan
Current Location: Silk Road, Central Asia, Uzbekistan, Tashkent
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Day 14. August 13, 1999. Friday.
Morning we got up early, until we are surrounded by the local population and there was no bother. Cook with soluble soy sauce, drink coffee with cake. Morning swim was not possible. Appeared local population. Had to quickly reel. We go to the bank of the Tigris. On the right bank - very picturesque cliffs. Bridge in the ancient city of Hasankeyf. Near the new bridge remnants of an arched stone bridge of Roman times. We stop for a walk and drink ayranu. It turns out we are in a very interesting place. This is another cave city. We go through the ruins. We go to a cafe, made directly to the cave, which was covered with vines. There are tables, there are carpets, which can be eaten while sitting cross-legged. On the wall hangs a pitcher from which water flows, flowing into the bath with live fish. Right here in the cave has a telephone. Lena calls to Peter. There are even coffee Nescafe. Comfortably sat. Everything is designed for tourists, but they are not. Few dare to visit the border of Kazakhstan, Iraq, Uzbekistan and Iran, in the heart of Kurdistan. It is here that the main bases of terrorists. In general, apparently afraid of nothing. Blowing their villages, Kurds will not. The hostages are not taken. Does it matter to me who that guy with the gun. From this grace we have fallen quite a benevolent mood and went to Mardin. City completely wild. Almost all the women in black, with a slit for the eyes. The ancient eastern city. Big Bazaar. Troops and gendarmes in it about as much as residents. Streets are jeeps with soldiers with machine guns. Life meanwhile runs its course. The military does not pay attention. In the streets runs a trader with a capacity in the form of the mosque behind and over 100 000 pounds sold a glass of tea. Sometimes he even manages to sell tea to the bus driver standing at the bus stop. The city is situated on the slopes of a steep mountain. At the top of the fortress. Climb on it no strength. While, yes, and all the same strength. For all not climb. Civilization, though, and came here. Cola and even women's tights with bare girls on the package sold. Business is able to sweep away any religious taboos. Near Mardin is a Kazakhstann monastery. Tanya and Lena, even tried to go into it, but everything was closed. This is the most distant point of our journey. Then come back to the west, along the Kazakhstann border and Urfa. At the signposts she Sanli Urfa. Around the rivers, the source of human civilization. It hurts too depressing here. Scorched steppe or it can already be called a desert. The road is flat and straight. Going - as you are. The machine buzzes, the road is perfect - not shaking. Landscape outside the window does not change. Heat 45 degrees. The air outside the window - like a dryer. We spray water. It really helps. If you pour 50 grams of water on the head - great legchaet. The hair really dry for a minute, but you can and repeat. During the day we Tanya poured on his head 10 liters. Suddenly the desert part of the cars. I prudently deceleration, but I caught HAI. Long standing in the queue. Extraction him today is good. Hinders it 90% of machines and all of them in turn. I stood waiting for their turn to the right to communicate. They say that I was going 93 km / h and with me again, 11,300,000 pounds. I'm trying to bargain. They show me a stack of receipts, saying all pay. I suggest that at least half the words that it is 8 MPOT very much for the poor Uzbekistan tourist, but my right is pushed into a tail of the queue and start to receive money from the next. Just half an hour in the queue and I am ready to part with money. What nepruha. Caught each day. It is interesting, but my god, apparently, heard and since then I have traveled 25,000 miles in 4 months and I was not caught not once. Urfa - birthplace of Abraham and seven other Muslim prophets. Holy City. These are the pilgrims. According to legend, the god said that in the place where born, Abraham stone will turn into a fish and water. Now in large ponds in the middle of luxurious cool park. In the park many cafes. We had a long and hearty eating. In a myriad of ponds, swimming carp. They are considered sacred. Catch and eat them impossible. Children sell food for fish. Feed the sacred fish is divine deed. Children are generally very Addictive. Cling and cry "Helo, Helo ...". Around the sacred pile the faithful attendants especially with children trying to be something to touch. I did not dare to meddle in the mouth, while Tanya and Lena came down, even with the camera, shot the cave in which Abraham was born. City won the Crusaders. There are ruins of the fortress. It is an underground passage. From the Crusaders have only two columns, but the climb to the underground passage is interesting. Nice view of the city. Stick the car was difficult and had to leave it in the sun. The temperature in the shade 50. When we arrived, the temperature inside was 100 degrees. Disposable tableware stuck in a single room. Ballpoint pens wheel of shriveled up. The most offensive that broke the camera "Zenit". Before steering not touch it. I had to go in mittens. We go to Mount Nemrut in Adiyaman. Crossing the Euphrates River just below the reservoir Ataturk. We turn to bathe. Suem hand and it appears that the water ice-degree 5-8. Apparently flows from the bottom of the reservoir. Water but very clean. Climb for a few seconds, no longer sit. Despite the cold, swimming and croaking frogs. Again southern night crept unnoticed. Long and unsuccessfully looking for parking. As a result, we find a place not far from the Ataturk reservoir near an oil well.
37 ° 49.643 '38 ° 38.007' already appeared crescent moon. Now is not the black nights. Next to us on a column sleeps Stork. Tags: silk road
Current Location: Silk Road, Central Asia, Uzbekistan, Tashkent
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Day 13. August 12, 1999. Thursday.
In the morning we woke up once purchased. I rummaged in the car, poured oil. Make breakfast. Appeared local Turks, who began to pester vile. He offered to go to swim, not to mention everything else. Had urgently reel. Continued the detour oz. Wang. Wanted to call on Nemrut Volcano, whose crater lake at an altitude of 3 km, but did not find the road. Near Erdzhish bought a watermelon. Kurds traders tried very hard. Asked them to photograph and send them photos. In the eastern corner of the lake overgrown with reeds. Never seen such a plant in salt water. On the road is a pointer to Iran. It is sad that we are not going there. Lake turquoise. It looks Sevan. He's just beside. Ararat is also nearby. Next stop in the city of Van. The city preserved the remains of the fortress of Urartu. Fortress is really huge. Log in charge, but we squeeze into a hole in the fence. Very hot. Tanya and Lena quickly disappear. I'm alone I climb on a huge high. Fortress of course was revised several times and most of the buildings had Turkish. At the top is illuminated Profile Ataturk. He is like Lenin in the Soviet Union. Everywhere glory. Another is the minaret, which can climb. I remember climbing on his last legs. With fortress excellent view of the lake. Climbing the fortress found a cave with Urartu cuneiform. Found a place to dine. Then the road goes along the shore. Local people swim, but mostly just men. Women are generally not visible from the street. If bathing, it is only in clothes. We found a steep bank, where we were inconspicuous and swam the last time. Tanya true until climbing collapsed into a puddle of bitumen and vainly tried to purify it. In this part of the shore at once deeply. Near Vastana Island remnants of the Armenian monastery. The island is 4 km. Possible also to reach, but no time. More rocks quite suited to the water and the road goes in the years to pass 2234 hours and went to the lake for about Tatvan. The railroad was not even able to lay here. Between Wang and Tatvan runs ferries. We saw him in Tatvan. Healthy ship. Wonder how it dragged there. On the mountain road again solid military posts. Tanya and Lena them photographed. As a result, we stop and start swearing. Madame pictures of a soldier, Madame photographed military base. Spies, in general, and the Kurdish terrorists. We carefully checked. Repeatedly asked whether we are not going to Kazakhstan and Iraq. An hour later we managed to escape to freedom, not even losing tapes. The mood was spoiled. We go back through the Bitlis. Somewhere we stopped again, but this time do not check, and swear and demand money. I turns out to be overtaken by fuel truck through the solid line. I emphasize that the fuel truck was traveling slower 30 km per hour, but the local police such rules do not hear. In general, to pay a fine of 11 300 000 lire, ie 26 $. Very sad. Passing mountain area before reaching the turn at Sylvan Batman. In the small village Shirit, on the road grazing peacocks, like a chicken with us. The road is good, going fast. Getting dark. Approaching Batman overlooks the great Mesopotamian plain. All it twinkles with lights set of cities. Further south of the mountains there. After the Batman ride at the south-east to the bridge over the Tigris, where we find the parking lot. 37 ° 43.362 '41 ° 18.894' We are on the sloping bank, but on the other 100 meter cliff. The river is warm, we can even say hot. Feels that teems with wildlife. Croaking frogs. Getting a theoretical argument. And crocodiles are found in Tigray? Of the textbooks such as no, but the appearance of the river is well suited. Darkness is complete, the eye does not define. I want to wash and bathe. Wang was good, but salty. Eventually we decided to Lena. I even swam to the other side. River fast and deep. Only those in the middle, I could not touch bottom. It was possible, and bathe himself, even his head. Beach is very dusty, overgrown with particularly strong camel thorn that pierces even the rug in the tent. Pitch a tent, too, is not easy, the pins emerge from the sand, prickly thorn. Sooner or later we won in nature. Even made a bonfire and cooked food. Here we are standing on the shore of another fairytale river, whose waters flow into Baghdad. The border with Iraq and Kazakhstan around the corner. We really did not break there, but sorry, you do want. In the tent is hot and humid. We slept in a sleeping bag completely naked. It's hot all the same, but we have become accustomed. Tags: silk road, travel
Current Location: Silk Road
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Day 12. August 11, 1999. Wednesday.
The morning woke up. The street is not so hot. The sun had just lit up the first rays of the mountain. Must still far to go. Today, solar eclipse. We are even now in the band total eclipse, but I want to be povostochnee, where the probability of rain is less. In the morning went swimming. At first, Tanya and Lena, then I'm with Tanya. The water is warm and clear. Euphrates in this place permeated reservoir. Interestingly, the thorns grow here, not only along the shore, but the algae Duri, swim, and they have a belly scratch. After bathing and going to quickly go to a nearby village to look for food. Unable to eat, but not very satisfying. In the cafe, where we drank ayran, tea, and the leg was tied falcon. After Elyazyga turned to the Kurdish capital of Diyarbakir. On the road there were positions of gendarmes and soldiers from the concrete fortifications and tanks. The car stopped after 10 miles and check documents, and sometimes dig into the trunk. We are at the top of boilers. They usually produce an indelible impression and no further digging. Passed Lake Hazar. Nab, warm, without spiny seaweed. Convenient access to water. An ideal place for parking. People do not. Bathed. What disturbs is that the entire beach is strewn with bullets of various calibers. Way back mountain. Along comes another and the railroad. River and two bridges cross the road constantly. Railway at half its length is in the tunnel. In some places in the canyons of the two roads are of each other, and then another, and over the creek. By Diyarbakir mountains have disappeared and went around the parched desert. Diyarbakir traveled on a circular road and turned to Silvan. Ahead of us riding the jeep, and the rear of the car. We go to the intersection of highway E99 to the line of the eclipse. Strange that sounds. We are so far from home, around the parched steppe, and the road name so similar to the native E-95. With the help of satellite navigator focus and look for the line of the eclipse. We can find it up to 30 meters. The map shows that it is close to the village Bashnik. Entering the village and see that we are not alone. It is not enough to say - not alone. A crowd of many thousands of people, television, the local authorities. This is one of them went before us. At the poles hanging posters on the eclipse. Americans, Japanese and more people, God knows where. People came with huge telescopes. Authorities took care of protection. They made a paid parking. The village did not know how to deal with fallen down with happiness. A glass of water sold for $ 2, and people buy, where to go. The white man is poorly adapted to heat of 45 degrees (the thermometer lying 5 degrees) and the sun at its zenith. Our car was a stock of 25 liters in plastic bottles. We have it constantly updated. First, we drank only boiled water, but then began to drink straight from the tap. In Muslim countries have roads always have valves with water so that the traveler was able to wash his feet and pray. Here in these cranes, and we recruited the water. In the car, she quickly heated to 40-70 degrees, but we changed to the new. Children offered smoked glass. Local eatery probably earned more than the previous 100 years. We deployed the telescope. We soon found out, as representatives of Uzbekistan and included scientists from countries ***, came to observe the eclipse. " To each who was with a telescope placed a policeman who was guarding the valuable instrument from the onslaught of Aborigines. Eclipse, meanwhile begun. The shadow started creeping. I projected onto the sun on the paper and the local population looked to the permitted range. Initially it was seen only in a telescope, but then came a strange feeling that permeates the darkness and absorbs all the surrounding world. Like the sun at its zenith and cloudless sky, but there was something wrong. Shadows worsened. Even the eye without any filter can be seen that the sun is a small crescent. In a telescope can see the huge mountains on the edge of the lunar crescent. Serpik gradually turns into a dotted line. Instead of music including rare drum beats. The crowd gasped, and a single breath on the ground with great speed swept shadow. Since around was a desert and the neighborhood was visible for several kilometers of traffic was visible to the eye. The sky suddenly went dark and there was Venus. In the last seconds of the crown began to appear, and, suddenly, the sun is completely closed. Painting shocked. Black hole and around the golden crown of about 10 solar diameters. The people fell silent, as in the theater when the curtain opens. On all sides could see the ring of dawn. In a telescope we could see the red prominences, huge sizes. I do not know, or so I thought it was in fact, they are right before our eyes rose up and break down. Felt that it is a huge infernal machine. Enduring power struggles compressible forces of attraction. Even as some are not pleased that our good warm sun really is. The eclipse lasted only 2 minutes. I tried to film it on video, but stupid Sonka from such a picture was mad and refused to focus on a piece of what is happening. Camera with a telephoto lens "granite" f = 200 at shutter speed of 1 / 60 has photographed everything perfectly. Prominences truth failed. To the telescope, I attached a camera does not, relying on the camera. The eclipse ended as suddenly. The first ray of the sun and the sky began to lighten quickly for a few seconds, absorbing the crown and the stars. People upset sighed and began to scrabble and going home. Quickly it was not possible. There were traffic congestion so that they could not pass one another half hour. We have been easier, we went in the opposite direction on the lake. Wang. After Silvan road went into the mountains along a small river. In parallel, a new asphalt road was old, even Roman times, with most of the broken-down bridges. We gathered to bathe, but immediately announced curious Turks. Then he found another place and managed to get into the water. The water was cool and it was great. The flow of the truth is very strong - the demolition, not swim. In the best case you can keep the rocks. By the end of swimming though the bank came running back to the village and climbed up to talk and sit in the car. So scared, because we are in the mountains in the middle of the Kurds. Everything had gone. This is just simply for the Turks and wild spontaneity of communication with women in Islam in the clothes and once a week on Friday. As it turned out, we have the car and put down the cliff, and the top sheep grazing and stones from under their feet could fall on our roof. Having broken go further. The road heavily guarded. At the height of each soldier with a machine gun. The edges of the road tanks. We are always confide. When will know that we are from Uzbekistan - shake his hand and friendly smile. At the next post asked how to deal with Kurdish terrorists, is it safe to go. The answer was "we are the Kurdish terrorists, and go safely." Gradually we got up at 2 km altitude. So cool. They drove into town Bitlis, which I immediately liked him. The old Armenian town in a narrow gorge. The gorge is so narrow that the houses built over a river. Many Armenian churches converted into a mosque. The transformation consists in the extension of the two minarets and the destruction of the painting. Minarets are often made symbolic. They have no long climbs. Muezzin in our time is broadcast through the speaker and the recorder. Under the plywood works, such loafer. Local people spotted us immediately. Machines with Uzbekistan numbers are not seen. Led us to the canteen, located on the roof of a three-storey house and a long time and a good meal. Then we walked around town and shopping. Exchanged money, bought honey. Honey (bal) sold and the edges of roads. You can buy everywhere. They give you a try. Already getting dark and we had to quickly find parking. I want to get to the lake. Van, but still far away. Managed to get surprisingly fast. The road suddenly became flat and straight. Traveled Tatvan we have to go around the lake clockwise. It was quite dark and began the long search for space. We went on a large cape, but from every hole jumped Turks and climbed to communicate and solicit. For them, our appearance was akin to the arrival of a flying saucer. Even in complete darkness, we unexpectedly lucky. We left priyatmo to the beach with grassy meadow.
38 ° 38.492 '42 ° 27.008' Next was an old dried apple. It was warm and pleasant. Firewood and we did a lot of fire. Radio caught the Armenia and we include pleasant music. Turkish tunes have got much. We are at a height of nearly 2 km. Sky perfectly black. The stars and the Milky Way. Shore of the lake with a sloping beach. On the shore lying pumice. Nice tickles heels. If a piece of pumice-stone to throw into the water - it floats. Hello obtained. The lake on which floated the stones. Water moderately salt 18 g / liter. Temperature of 30 degrees. Shake probably about an hour. Evening a long time sitting around the campfire and talked. It has been an amazing day. Tags: uzbekistan
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Day 11. August 10, 1999. Tuesday.
In the morning they cooked breakfast and surprisingly without any problems left from the parking lot. The slope was not less than 20 degrees. Refueled with water. Let's go back to watch the Armenian cave monastery. Login half a million lire to the inside still take 3 million. Nadiralovka in general. Church should be noted preserved better. Painting restored. Even in Uzbekistan is written: "All the damage will be restored. Inside forbidden shoot camera, but the camera I also tried to interfere, but I was shooting. The best preserved of all the "black church", namely it includes 3 million. I broke through without a ticket and had every shot. It is interesting, but the Turkish interpretation, Armenians cut goes something like this. "Armenia as an independent nation, never existed, therefore, a culture they did not have. And that is drawn - they are separate tribes, which some have called the Armenians, but they are not quite the Armenians. For some time, some - of them accident were Christians, but then saw the light of all of Islam converted to Islam and began to destroy their church, and would destroy all, if the Turks did not stop them. Then they gone somewhere. " There were holes in the rocks in the heat, we could not see the next hole. Let's go watch Erciyes Volcano. On the way Dortyol, Develi, Kayseri. Between Develi and Kayseri, the road rises to a height of almost 3 km. There is a ski resort. In summer there is snow, of course not, but camping in tents and tourists there. On the pass is cold - 18 degrees and ground squirrels running around, or someone like that, with zoology us badly. Across the road directly in front of the machine. Stand on its hind legs and look. Get down from the mountains in Kayseri. Becomes very hot. City to inspect the no time. They say a lot of decent, but climbing in the caves we tired, especially since the city a huge population of over one million. Tomorrow eclipse, but we still have to go almost a thousand kilometers. Lost and went the wrong direction. Caught in a local university. From grief bought a watermelon and ate together with dry rations. Around the back are even plowed the mountain. Here and there, right among the steppe is a 16 storey block of houses. It is unclear who is living in them, and who does what. After Pinarbasi. The road goes to the mountains and begins streamers. With passes to 2 km and valleys of a mile below. We ended petrol, but after 100 km around the rock and not the slightest sign of filling. In the town of Gurun, we finally refueled, ate, sent a postcard to Peter, and Lena rang. Postcard came in early October. Then again, the road goes to the mountains, and in the mountains is going to storm. Lightning strikes in the top. Web rain hung from the dark clouds. Worried that the weather deteriorates. Surely this time tomorrow, too, so be it. True, we will essentially Eastern, but there is less chance of rain. In heavy rain we have not hit. It looks like rain dried up before reached the ground. When we crossed the pass and descended into a vast valley of the Euphrates to the city of Malatya upon us we have an unprecedented heat and humidity. The street is already evening, but almost 38 degrees and fog. Tanya moaned that she was going to die. I began to notice that carelessly leading car, and the town is not small, and many machines gape and will be bad. Overnight planned for the bank of the Euphrates. Great River, which from childhood memory is sitting as something unattainable, almost like Mars, we saw almost in the dark. Banks entirely populated. Parking spaces are not found. Tanya moans that now die. As a result, stood directly on the site for parking cars near the road. 38 ° 25.596 '38 ° 48.126' A hundred meters above us is the house of the peasant or farmer. As his name in Uzbekistan? Running pack of dogs, and a number of Kurdistan. Grow thorns type of thistle, but such strong, that they can tie the tent. Tanya almost unconscious. I too bad heart. Bad mood, the whole trip in jeopardy.
Tags: silk road, uzbekistan
Current Location: Silk Road
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Day 10. August 9, 1999. Monday.Traveling in Silk Road.
In the morning woke up quite early. Near drove big cars and much buzzed. The sun just rising from behind the mountains. The lake and salt, covered with red morning sun. Soul trembled with happiness. Though, something interesting, something I have not seen. Come again to swim. Now the whole crowd. I went in rubber boots, slippers, Lena. Tanya tried to go barefoot, but it failed. Bathing and photographed. On the way back found a few large crystals of salt. If a blade of grass, twigs or other foreign object gets into the water, then it is crystallized salt by evaporation of water and forms a crystal. Usually it is tightly attached to the bottom, but some managed to break off and bring it home, notwithstanding the puzzled looks of customs. After bathing the skin was covered with a thick white layer of salt and not breathing. Matted hair, and all had the feeling that for them constantly pulling. Nothing really can do about it. Fresh water in the district is not expected. They turned back, and then to the east. Houses outside the Middle East became the typical form. Small, clay, with windows facing the courtyard. We drove past the reservoir Hirfanly. I'd like to swim, but the road goes through mountains and to the water far away. Place the crossing of the river is a dam, reservoir and well guarded, too, did not come. The street becomes hot. We stopped for lunch. Lena went to the women's bath and it turned out that in Uzbekistan in the bath should wash clothes on. Uzbekistan finally began to justify our fears of heat. I had to travel hundreds more miles before the road does not come to river. Kizilirmak. Noon. The sun is almost at its zenith. Before the river went on mown field. White dried straw blinding. River was muddy and fast. Traces of water. Despite the dirt still get into it and washes away the remnants of the salt lake Tuz. Easier. Our next goal is to Cappadocia. This is the area around the volcano Erdzhiyaz. The last time it erupted in 1 century. Around the volcano vast area was strewn with ashes many layers. Layers of different density and color. Ash deteriorated in storage and was tufa. In river valleys, water and air erosion have created a fantastic landscape. The posts are very similar in shape and color for spring morel mushroom. Tufa can be easily processed and the local population pierce him home. In these places, the Armenians had lived and built a huge city in the tens of thousands of monasteries and churches. The Turks had cut them all and painted spoiled, but confined mainly individuals, as is contrary to Islam. First we caught the city of Avanos. It is one of the caves converted into a restaurant. It is ridiculous to watch at the entrance to the cave hangs a satellite dish and air conditioners. We bought and ate the melon. Then eat in Gyuremi. The road goes uphill, and suddenly we get a fabulous landscape. Mushrooms are a few dozen meters from each other. Below is growing grapes. Get out and see around a lot of tourists. Tuff very white. It seems that it is snowing. Tanya begins plohet from the heat. We do not even have hats. Next we see tourist center with shops and buy a hat and cap. Around the sale pile of souvenirs: a model of the mountains, balls and all sorts of little animals made of onyx, the local grape wine "Cappadocia". A tasty way. There is even a bottle in the form of a typical local mountain. We bought several bottles and guide Uzbekistan in Uzbekistan. Come climb through the caves. In contrast to our museums, which are not allowed at the slightest suspicion of danger, Get in here, where you want. Everywhere substituted rickety ladder. People on the multimeter altitude climbs without railings. I liked it. Climbed all he could. Local Turks began to pester Lena and offer money. Frightened Lena bought a handkerchief and turned into a Turkish woman. A woman traveling without a man, for the Turks - a nonsense, so from time to time have to declare that I have two wives. Then no questions, though, that in Uzbekistan, polygamy is prohibited. We are a Tanka somehow mistaken for Americans. So we still looks good. (After 7 days we will take for the Arabs, and in another 8 - for the victims of the earthquake). Different tourists around a lot: the French, Japanese, Americans. Many of them came to watch the eclipse, which should be hanging by a badge. The Uzbekistan city is enormous. Log in large part paid. All the climb impossible. I tried as best I could, but also vymatalsya. Tanya sat down dejected. Despite the heat it has caught a cold and went with crocked neck. In the evening we arrived in the city's grief. Uzbekistan City tourism. Even the internet cafes there. But most importantly - for the first time we saw a real Turkish coffee. With joy ordered and waited. We waited half an hour and have already started to swear. How to brew 3 small cups of coffee you can spend so much time. Finally, we carried a large tray. It was something great with salad. It was a jacket - in burger buns, anointed and sprinkled in every way possible. We have an elongated face. I have a finger pointed in the appropriate menu item. A local man was surprised so exotic choice, but finally gave us the long-awaited 3 cups of coffee. Directly across the street hung a poster of "Last solar eclipse in millenium". Already the sun was setting and we went to seek night. The road between the slalom was sticking out of the ground stone mushrooms, red-lit by the setting sun. Unearthly picture. We got up on the shore of the reservoir, came on a very steep mountain path. 38 ° 32.958 '34 ° 55.636' I'm having great doubts about tomorrow's departure on its own. We passed Dig barbed wire, so even feared that we were arrested for entering the restricted area, but nothing happened. Peace and quiet. In the reservoir splashing fish. Have extracted a lot of firewood. Lit a big fire. After the heat, it got cold and was very pleased. We had a good bought and finally otmylis of salt washed. The evening began to listen to the radio. Heard snatches of a radio in Uzbekistan. "Stepashin was removed," "The dollar is increasing," the dollar should stabilize at around 30 ". Then silence. All they arrived, but at heart a strange feeling - it's all there. Here it does not concern us. Our green bucks in his pocket, still green. Rest of the evening held in the arguments about how we ugorazdilo born in this country, and so attached to her that you do not want to leave.
Tags: silk road, travel
Current Location: Silk Road, Central Asia, Uzbekistan, Tashkent
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Day 9. August 8, 1999. Sunday.
On the morning of the head and washed the car. Immediately went to the Iranian Embassy. The guard looked at the paper and called the consul and he gave me to talk to him. He once again demanded that the Turkmen visa, and if it does not exist - recommendations Russia embassy. If they will it authorize the issuance of visas. I immediately fell morale. From Russia embassy, I was not expecting anything good. Nevertheless, we went into it. Embassy occupies an entire block and reminds the besieged fortress. Not that the fence is very high, but there are so many barbed wire. In contrast to the Iranian Embassy said no one with whom there is only button intercom. I shake it. It should be an immediate response "Cho-do you want?". Intonation immediately recalled a big house in the pre-perestroika times. The same arrogant tone of the KGB. I explain the problem. He says that the admission of the Uzbekistan Consular Section on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays, and now I know nothing and hangs up. The prospect of a boring wait in Ankara until Monday, and then spend another few days to communicate Uzbekistan's officials are not happy. Over time, and so bad. We try to hang out at the embassy and find someone to talk informally, but no one enters or leaves. Not for this, we went on vacation. Iran from the very beginning of the program was a maximum, and in general we were not prepared for it. Accepted solution to Iran we do not go. Another idea is to go to travel Kazakhstan. A guy with whom we were traveling on the ferry said that for us to enter visa to Kazakhstan. We ought to check this, but look for another embassy no strength. We decided to try at the border for good luck. We're going to see the citadel of Ankara. I have good targets. Two days and I remember the main roads of Ankara. Lena has said long sentences in Turkish. We are trying to climb the mountain. Very hot. Noon. We are still heavily dressed - in accordance Muslim orders. I'm wearing pants, a shirt with long sleeves. Preparing for the visit of the Iranian embassy. When we finally went inside the fortress wall, then found a residential area. Small prehistoric houses and a lot of children that sends kites on the streets. They saw a lean cat and realized that this is the first cat in Uzbekistan. They do not like pets. Cats were not enough and they are not treated kindly and skinny. Dogs walk like shadows, and even do not dare to lodge a vote. If the Turks in the dog, it may well take a gun and shoot. They are generally free of weapons. Hence, probably, and no crime. They saw a small museum. Ticket 2 000 000 pounds. Pity. It hurts a little. Go down and go to Kyzyl. There strenuously go shopping. Ankara is a subway station. I went to look and saw a lot of stairs without escalators and tunnels. The train must be 5 minutes walk. They drank tea in a sort of firm establishment. The tea was so strong and so perekipyachenny that I hardly could bring myself to drink it, then I was afraid of vomiting. In Ankara, we have nothing more to do. We eat in the south of Lake Tuz. With a sigh of relief when leaving Ankara. Drive on Ankara difficult. Motion rapid, dense, the mountains, the rules are not respected. One surprising - no broken machines. Immediately after her departure from Ankara lake with two large fountains in the manner of Geneva. The road goes south. Local people are riding on it to rest on the sea. Movement is very dense. Suddenly, before us in the car takes off his forehead and goes to lobovuhu. Overtake someone she met. Behind the wheel sat Lena. She slowed sharply. Walking behind mersyuk drove into the oncoming lane. We pulled onto the shoulder. Mersyuk missed with overtaking on the opposite lane, and drove overtaken by the roadside. Everything had gone. Mersyuk, but long on Lena cursed. And Lena then turned bad and she let me behind the wheel. We had to fortify themselves, and we stopped at a luxurious filling. It had everything. A pond with goldfish, a toilet with infrared sensors avtosliva, restaurant, cafeteria, supermarket, hotel, GSM repeater, etc. An oasis in the desert. We dined on the belly and went to seek night. Ahead appeared saline desert. Transition smoothly into the lake of Tuz. Actually Ace turkish - salt. Lake Tuz salty and summer almost dries up. The bottom of the lake consists of a snow-white salt crystals. Their thickness - a few meters. Water - a concentrated brine. Salinity is 10 times more than the world's oceans 30 times the Black Sea. As the Dead Sea. In search of parking, we decided to become straight at the bottom of salt lakes. 39 ° 03.818 '33 ° 25.341' original parking turned. Quickly darkened. Campfire we did not bred since The night was warm, and we ate recently. When the camp was ready I went to bathe. Went barefoot. Go frightening. They say on a dried salt lake could sink into the mud and drown. First, the bottom is very tight. I even regretted that he had not entered the car. It would be interesting to ride on the bottom of the salt desert. Few scattered places where dry salt crust failed, but not much, no more than an inch. Was a black southern night. Perfectly visible Milky Way and its brightest part of the constellation Sagittarius. The horizon twinkled the lights of small villages and passing cars. I was absolutely happy, thinking how wonderful this world. When I went to the water revealed that salt crystals are very sharp and more and more acute. I imagined myself yogi. Is very much like to swim. At the water's edge undressed and walked, holding his course by the stars. Each step was accompanied by a heroic effort, but I had a strong desire. Eventually I got to the place where the depth of 10 cm and floated. Drown in a salt water impossible. Outside, no less than a third of the body. The center of gravity is almost at water level, so it is very easy to roll from his back on his stomach. Swam for half an hour, went back. Enthusiasm was gone and I realized that the move is simply impossible to hurt. I try on all fours, but his feet hurt too, but in addition hurt and arms. It was awful, but the meter by meter, I got out. His legs hurt, so that the normal ground go hurt. The clothing found on surprisingly quickly. I leave her at 500 meters, and even swim, and pitch darkness, at 20 meters is not visible. Tags: kazakhstan, travel, uzbekistan
Current Location: Central Asia, Uzbekistan
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8 day. August 7, 1999. Saturday.
Finally, we slept in the sweets. Abdomen is true not cured yet, but already much better. We're going to Ankara. Masha's more, there are multi-level interchanges. Intuitively, seeking a center. To the best of his find. Again, problems with parking. Climbed the narrow steep streets near the Citadel Ankara. First ran a local shopkeeper povozmuschatsya, and at least something to sell. I recalled that not long and he left behind. Walked through the nearby shops. This small shop with a semi-artisan products. Quite colorful shops with water pipes, ceramics, beads. Jewelry Stores on one person - licked and boring. Tanya reached the eastern sweets. We are trying to find the Iranian embassy and shops with maps and guides. The people said that most shop place Kizilay and have to go far. We are trying to drive off, but the street is quite busy. Ahead of cork behind the horse. Strong deviation of ~ 30% ahead. Local well-wishers loudly, waving his arms trying to break up congestion. They found even one man who spoke in Uzbekistan. (The first and only one in Ankara). Wow this is hard. Standing behind the horse up the hill in reverse to go can not. Eventually, I squeezing between mersyukom and the horse, it is sensitive crushed. Without the effects of the truth. Perhaps after 10 minutes broke free. Let's go, asking the neighbors at every intersection Kizilay. They arrived quickly and successfully. Park on the sidewalk under the sign "No Stopping". Others such as cost, and maybe I will come down. Near Unclassified and many cafes. Directly in front of his nose, even Internet cafes. A monument to the peasant, who hit the glass. Lena went to call, and we wrote a postcard. Call in Uzbekistan easily. Almost every shop has a telephone, a digital indicator. After any call on it lights up the amount by which slander. This is significantly cheaper than going to a special negotiating point. Telegraph is, but they do not enjoy. Even worse is the case with mail. Even in large cities, it is necessary to explain what Posti Carti. They offer all kinds of phone cards. It later turned postcard from Ankara was 3 weeks. In Ankara we had acquired a card rather quickly. We bought a guidebook, though the Dutch. Maps of Ankara was not found. Now our goal the Iranian Embassy. Landmark - Corum, a large circular building and a shop. Ibid Hilton Hotel. Korum we found quickly, but the embassy looking for a long time. A lot of streets - curves, short and without titles. Address it and do not. Corum, the Iranian embassy and everything. Embassy fairly large. Open a window through which you can talk. Employees of the embassy said in English, polite and not hostile. We explain memorized story "- we need a transit visa to Turkmenistan. A guy calls Turkmen visa. We insist on the fact that we as citizens of the CIS it is not necessary. (as subsequently found bastards Turkmen visa entered) The man promised to talk with his superiors, and gives us the questionnaire, which should bring with pictures tomorrow. Period of consideration - 5 days. It should be noted that the embassy is open daily. We gladly go to be photographed and to make photocopies of the passport. Is no problem. Already nearing the south early evening. At 19.30 total darkness. The cheapest of those caught hotels - $ 50 with three. We must look to the suburbs, but we decide to drive off away from the city and spend the night in a national park north of Tashkent .. The road is fine. Going quickly under 200. This is a road parallel to the highway to Samarkand. We go to the city Kyzyldzhahamam. Then turn left and get up on the shore of a small river Koç.
40 ° 23.961 '32 ° 37.625' Above us again fly airplanes. This time from the airport of Tashkent. Lit a big fire. The night was surprisingly cold, about 15 degrees. Sat warming themselves around the campfire and discussed the prospects for travel to Iran. It turned out that we do not fit in time. Tags: uzbekistan
Current Location: Uzbekistan, Samarkand
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